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Home > News > Harvesting caviar in the Swiss Alps
Wednesday, 9 July, 2008

Harvesting caviar in the Swiss Alps

Switzerland is known for a lot of things—cheese, chocolate, banks, just to name a few—but if one Swiss man has his way, caviar will be on that list. A Swiss entrepreneur is trying to harvest sturgeon caviar in the middle of the Alps.  World Radio Switzerland’s Alex Helmick went to the little town of Frutigen in search of the fine delicacy.

Sturgeon caviar is a delicacy from the Caspian Sea, but if Samuel Moser has his way, people will be talking about Swiss caviar.

Moser is the CEO of the Tropenhaus project that will, among other things, harvest caviar in the Swiss Alps. So is he serious?

sturgeon 2
Switzerland’s Samuel Moser holds one of his young sturgeon that will eventually produce caviar. (Alex Helmick, WRS)

SAMUEL MOSER: Yes we are. I will show you in our fish which we have imported from Germany. They are seven years old. They have to reach the age of maturity and we have slaughtered some of them and we know that it works. We have put our facilities properly according to hygienic standards, and we can produce caviar as soon as these fish are ready for us.

And the conditions for raising the fish just may be perfect. When the Swiss created the world’s longest land tunnel, Loetschberg, they also interrupted the flow of water that seeps through the rock in the mountains.

That water had to be collected and then cooled before it could be put into the local rivers or it could have destroyed the balance in the ecosystem.

“We can produce caviar as soon as these fish are ready for us.”

Peter Hoffschmidt was the chief architect on the Loetschberg tunnel and had an idea for all that warm water.

PETER HOFFSCHMIDT: Because I am a fisherman, I created this idea of why not use this water to produce something valuable and that’s how it started. And then during my career, I was also working in Russia. I got to know the sturgeon and the caviar, so this brought me to the idea to look into the possibility of using the sturgeon.

The warm water is collected in a tank, then funneled off to one of Moser’s pools where the sturgeon swim.

MOSER: It is 20 degrees. It is perfect for our fish. It is clean. We don’t need to filter it at all. And it comes all 24 hours a day around the clock and that means we have a very valuable source. The base, the raw material for our agricultural system.

sturgeon 1
Samuel Moser’s sturgeon swim in pools in the middle of the Swiss Alps. The pools use warm mountain water diverted from Loetschberg Base Tunnel. Eventually, the sturgeon will produce tons of caviar. (Alex Helmick, WRS)

Moser says the fish grow faster because of the warm water.

MOSER: The Siberian sturgeon is living originally in Siberia. That means a very continental climate where summers are very hot and winters are extremely cold. So this fish is used to growing very fast over four or five months within summer time, where as in winter it stays almost at the same level. And what we do is nothing else but to provide summer feelings and conditions for that fish all year round.

It will take about five years before the estimated 2-to-3 tons of caviar a year is being produced and spread around the world.

But grocery giant Coop is already on board. They’ll be the exclusive distributor in Switzerland.

The farm will also produce an estimated 40-to-50 tons of sturgeon meat as well. Coop will distribute that too. 

All of this will be based in the tiny town of Frutigen, with just 6,500 people. It’s about 50 kilometers south of Bern, and it will all be a part of a bigger Tropenhaus project, which could bring tens of thousands of tourists to the region.

Moser and company will build a 30 million franc facility that will also grow exotic fruits like bananas, mangos, papayas without any herbicides. It will also use geothermal and hydroelectric energy all fueled from that warm mountain water. 

So instead of having to cool the water artificially, the Tropenhaus will use it to its advantage and harvest a delicacy—a 2,000 franc per kilo delicacy.

Alex Helmick, World Radio Switzerland in Frutigen, just south of Bern.

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Comments

Total comments: 2 | Add to the discussion.

caviarist
Monday, 22 September, 2008 18:16 [ 1 ]

When I visited the project in April 2007 I was amazed by the spirit and vision of this project. But back then it was a mere spirit because of the couple of little tanks and the mayor construction sight one could see.

At first glance I liked the idea of this, using warm water in order to breed sturgeons. But on the second thought, however, this raises some questions regarding its main objective. Is it about minimizing collateral damage by not having to cool down the warm water anymore, or is it about creating high quality caviar?

Sure is, caviarists spend over quality.

Guaranteeing 20 degrees of water temperature all year round may be interesting for the investors. Temperatures at this level speeds up the growth of the sturgeons. That’s true. And somebody wants to be sure to get his 30Mio. CHF investment back in time.

Sturgeons interest might not always coincide with the connoisseurs interest who enjoy the complex taste that caviar can reach under the right conditions.

Sturgeons have a similarity with pinot noir grapes: they prefer high temperature ranges. Their ’fight’ against nature (temperatures) is actually their nature. A complex taste of caviar requests complex, challenging life conditions for the females.

That is why the only goal of sturgeon breeders around the world should be to imitate their natural habitats as good and profound as possible - if they seek for high quality caviar.

20 degrees during 12 months might give you a stable quality - sure. But it might also have a boring, undistinctive taste. But than again, a mass product for the masses (’Coop’) with a price tag of 2000CHF per kilo seems to be appropriate all the way.

In any case, I wish the best for this undertaking!

Marius Mateescu
Tuesday, 16 December, 2008 22:37 [ 2 ]

There is a strage fact. Sturgeons are salt water fishes. They come on sweet waters only fore breeding. The information presented in this article should mention that. The pool water is artifficialy salted?

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